For climbers, the Alps are one big playground of peaks, walls, and couloirs, all with an infrastructure to support access while allowing climbers to travel light.
While there are plenty of classic climbing areas with trail approaches to rock walls and walk off or rappel descents. There are also a seemingly infinite number of peaks to climb that require skills for a little of everything, from snow, to ice, to glacier, to rock to then reversing it all. The 4000-meter peaks alone offer 82 summits, many of which provide a route for all levels, from the “normal routes,” to technical climbing. The beauty of the Alps’ alpine peaks is that even the easy routes tend to be high quality.
In the Alps, the well rounded climber with solid technical skills is going to have a lengthy to-do list.
For the first time climber in the Alps, it’s important to understand the style in which things are done. The Alps are a busy place and the classic peaks get a lot of traffic. Many of these peaks include trade routes for mountain guides, many of these have been equipped for being climbed quickly and safely.
But even with all the other climbers and guides around, independent parties need to have a full skill set for all types of alpine situations from climbing technique to route finding to weather. Knowing when, and how, to retreat, is a must.
Similar to what we discussed on our Avalanche Page, there is an issue somewhat unique to the Alps. With all the people around, it’s possible to become a bit complacent, fall into line, and perhaps not take into consideration what is happening around you, or even where you are going.
Having the knowledge to remain independent and to choose the style appropriate to the conditions is critical. As an example, doing something in a just few hours (rather than over 2 days) may be possible for your skill level, but you need to know when conditions allow it to be possible for your level.
The higher you go in the Alps, the less forgiving the mountains are of poorly thought through decisions and mistakes.
I’m lucky to have many guide friends that teach me tricks. It’s a never ending process and I’m continually learning from all the many scenarios I find myself faced with.
The Alps are a great classroom. Some lessons are obvious, others less so. I once spent the night at a hut before climbing an alpine peak with a friend. We woke well before first light and charged outside with headlamps blazing, only to realize neither of us had checked exactly where to go the day before. Other climbers and trails went in all different directions.
While it’s a silly example and mistake, it does reveal a way of thinking that needs to be applied to decision making in the mountains. Be on your game, all the time!
I also have a list of stories, and harder learned lessons, ranging from wrong crampon choices, to being on the wrong route, being chased by storms, committing to descent routes, and of course just plain hard climbing that we needed to get through.