Sicily it seems, is not just for the Mafia anymore. Who would have thought that this island would be home to a utopia like world class sport climbing destination perched above the azzure Mediterranean waters? Compared to other European mainland sport climbing venues, San Vito lo Capo stands out for many reasons. It is dirt cheap. The food is some of the tastiest in all of Europe, the weather is ideal and the stone some of the best imaginable. No matter if you climb 5c/10a or 8a/13b, you’ll have plenty of five star routes to play on – all stacked on top of one another at various cliffbands. There are even multi-pitch routes on the walls of Monte Monaco directly behind town.
Getting there is easily done by flying into Palermo via RyanAir, renting a car and driving 90, surprisingly relaxing, minutes to the village of San Vito lo Capo on the northwest tip of the island. In my mind, Sicily was going to be chaos and a terrifying automobile experience. In fact, it was the opposite. Chaos came later at the produce stand. In the village proper of San Vito, we rented a nice apartment in late March for four people/one week, €250. Hard to beat. Much of the climbing is done within a 10 minute drive from the seaside resort village, a car is convenient although it is possible to walk to some of the more popular crags.
There is a Climbing Guide especially for Sicily and the San Vito info seemed to be pretty much spot on. But, I don’t remember seeing it, or any climbing gear, available in San Vito. Come well stocked. More recently developed areas have topos hanging at the crag, and as is typical of climbers everywhere, word spread quickly about what was worthy of visiting. Seems much of the development has been done by visiting German & Austrian climbers, the same nations providing the vast majority of visitors.
The rock is limestone and comes in all varieties, from tufa stuffed caves, to pocketed walls, slabs, stalactites, and even cracks. Some of the limestone is of such high quality and so compact, it almost appears as granite. Bolts & anchors, thanks to the Germans, are big, bomber and well placed. Overall, it is a place to climb hard and push yourself. And did I mention cappuccinos are still €1?
San Vito lo Capo and Monte Monaco
In the evening, hang at a local restaurant for freshly caught seafood. We discovered Ristorante Agora in the main part of the village and felt there was little reason to go anywhere else. Don’t miss the Insalata di Polipo, Branzino, house made pasta and then for desert, the Ricotta Mandorle. And you thought Italian food was the best…? The Sicilians really do take food to an even higher level.
Of course visiting later than April adds swimming in the clear Mediterranean to the list of to do’s. From many of the crags, this is an option in less than 5 minutes walk.
San Vito lo Capo Climbing Information & Beta
70 meter rope – 18 quickdraws
We were warned about lots of car break ins, we saw no evidence of such, but be warned.
Bring warm clothes for climbing in the caves or shade – it’s surprisingly cool near the water.
Apartments, B&B’s and Hotels are all readily available. Apartments offer the option of cooking, but then really, why would you want to do this?
Season seems to be March – mid June, then again September & October. The locals swore it wasn’t too hot in the summer, but the locals don’t climb.
Evi Gritsch at the Castle of Aragon
Pleasant seaside approach to the Bunker
Christof Ursch on something hard at the Castle of Aragon
Christof giving it all two thumbs up
The end of everyday includes this just before coiling your rope and heading to dinner
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rental car? rented apartment? restaurants? doesn’t sound dirt cheap to me!
Any good adress to give us for the apartement ? 🙂
Author
Aurele, sorry can’t help as I don’t have records of it. But we found several online right in San Vito.
Hi aurele,
maybe it’s too late now but I just stayed a week at the Blue Sea Bed and Breakfast in San Vito. 25 Euro per night including a fantastic Breakfast. They are very friendly and I found the accomodation very good. Any further informations:
http://www.sanvitobluesea.com/
Eric
Can anyone tell me where to get a guidebook for this area? What/where are the best steep crags?
Thanks!
Author
Hi Frank,
The guidebook is Classic Dolomite Climbs but it’s getting tough to find. Your best resource is going to be PlanetMountain. Steep climbing? Sport I assume? Cinque Torri is the must visit.
Dan
Thanks for the info. Yes, I was speaking of sport, single pitch, steep climbing. Also, do you think the water will still be warm enough for swimming in the middle of October? Say, Oct – 13 – 21? We were thinking about coming the week before but are worried about it being really crowded from the climbing festival.
Author
Frank,
My mistake – for some reason I thought you were speaking of the Dolomites. For San Vito – now you’re talking steep climbing. You’ll find it everywhere. I am sure you’ll find a guidebook when you get there, we had borrowed a friends but it is one of those places that as soon as you arrive it all makes sense after a day out.
Aragon is a very cool place with steep climbing – and the water ought to be warm that time of year, should be all around ideal.
Dan
Thanks again for the response. One more thing – do you think it will be really crowded Oct 6 – 14 because of the climbing festival going on during that period? We’re going to be kids and my parents and wouldn’t want to take them somewhere thats going to be really crowded.
Author
I haven’t been there during a festival, only in the low season. The plus of October is that there shouldn’t be so many regular non-climbing tourists so the people who are there should be like-minded and relaxed. The Euro scene. But, being Europe, it may well be super packed, I just don’t know for sure. There are places to escape, odds are it’ll be fine.
Oct 24th, not crowded at all. Sea is warmish and fine after some climbing in the full sun. Car is real useful for getting around and exploring although bikes would be excellent……
Climbing is great — hope my chalk supply lasts as have not seen any for sale here yet.
Hey all of you. There is a brand new Guidebook on Facebook, that I noticed today, which is still under development:
https://www.facebook.com/MountEryx
Seems to be initiated by local people.
Hi there,
I will be in Sicily from August 30th to September 14th and would love to be able to get a climbing day in. However, I could not find a website with information about climbing guide services. I am planing on just bringing my harness, shoes and chalk bag and try to find a guide or anyone who is willing to be my climbing partner. If you have any information, please let me know.
Thank you!
Franca